beauty

How to treat new wooden skis. How to lubricate wooden skis

Dmitry Zykov.

Science and life // Illustrations

When and where a person first got on skis and raced down the nearest hill on them is not known for certain. But with a high degree of probability it can be argued that the first skiers were hunters. It was not very easy for them to wander all day long in search of prey in deep snow, and they were not able to move quickly. So hunters began to come up with various devices in order not to get stuck in the snow.

Probably the first skis were snowshoes - flat, oblong platforms woven from branches, reminiscent of the bottom of a basket. It is impossible to slide on such a thing, and walking is uncomfortable. But still, on the dense snow, my feet, shod in snowshoes, did not sink. It’s worse if the snow is loose, it’s easy to get stuck in it, but hard to get out. But hunters are a smart people, and one of them thought of covering their snowshoes with animal skin, and not just plain skin, but kamus - this is part of the skin of an elk or deer, taken from a leg. The fur on it is very dense and durable, adjacent to the skin, and the hairs point in one direction. It turned out that snowshoes covered with camus can be used to roll down a hill and climb it, because on the descent the camus slips, and on the ascent it rests on the snow.

However, there were not enough kamus for everyone, and it was a pity for the deer and elk. The hunters had to come up with other ways to glide through the snow. It is not known exactly when they got on the sliding skis. In any case, the earliest rock carvings of skiers date back to the 3rd century BC, and the first mentions of skis and skiers are found in the Scandinavian sagas of the 8th-9th centuries.

Over time, hunters began to have wooden skis, at first straight, short and wide, then more similar to modern ones - relatively narrow and longer. Then skis would evolve faster. Their toes became bent, soft fastenings appeared in the form of belts, and then hard fastenings with special ski boots appeared.

Just some 20-30 years ago, almost all skis were wooden. To protect the wood from moisture (it appears not only from melted snow, but also simply because condensation forms on cold skis in a warm room), the skis were painted on top and resinized on the bottom. Now wooden skis have been replaced by skis made of plastic and combined ones - made of plastic and wood. Plastic skis do not get wet and glide better. For their manufacture today they use not only plastic, but also composite materials, alloys, and wood of various species.

Some ski enthusiasts believe that there is no need to do anything at all with combination and plastic skis - just get up and go! This is not true. Unlike wooden skis, plastic skis really do not require any sanding or tarring. However, new plastic skis must be waxed. To do this, rub a clean, dry sliding surface of the ski with a special ski paraffin (you can buy it in sports stores or order it online), then use a special ski iron or a very heated knife blade to evenly distribute the paraffin over the entire surface. The heated paraffin melts and fills all the pores in the plastic. When it has cooled, the excess is removed with a plastic scraper, and the surface is polished with a special rub or a hard nylon brush. After this comes the turn of the ski wax.

The first ski waxes appeared a hundred years ago. Before them, lard was used to make skis glide better and less snow stick to them. Now we have much more choice.

Modern ski waxes are divided into three groups. The first, very important one, is the soil. On the ground, the main ointment lasts well and for a long time, but without primer it can completely “slide off” in 3-4 hours of riding. The second group is ointments for gliding. They provide a minimum coefficient of friction between the sliding surface of the ski and the ski track. They are used, as a rule, to lubricate alpine skis and cross-country skis for skating. The third group is ointments for adhesion. They perform two tasks at once: on the one hand, they provide good gliding, on the other, when pushed, they “catch” onto the ski track. That is why professional skiers use them for classic skiing, and amateurs almost always, because you can’t really run on a regular forest track with skating.

Ointments are also distinguished by consistency. And although this division is largely arbitrary, it is worth remembering that solid ointments are designed for dry frosty weather, semi-solid - for temperatures around zero, and liquid - for temperatures above zero. The temperature range, and sometimes the snow condition for which the ointment is intended, is indicated on the label. For an ordinary ski trip, this information is enough.

How to properly wax your skis? Let's start with the fact that before a long hike, skis need to be treated with ground paraffin. It is worth doing this at the beginning of spring, when the weather is frosty in the morning and the snow is very hard. For normal, even winter weather, soft fresh ski tracks and a short walk, it is not necessary to prime your skis.

The ointment, as we have already said, is applied to the clean and dry sliding surface of the ski in a thin, even layer and rubbed thoroughly. For classic skiing, the toe and heel of the skis are lubricated with ointment or paraffin for gliding, and the cargo area (30-45 cm in the middle part of the ski) is lubricated with ointment for traction.

If you have skis with notches (“hooks” on the sliding surface of the loading area) - there are many of these on sale now - then they practically do not require ointment for grip. However, in warm weather or on an icy track, the notches cannot cope with the recoil, so even such skis have to be lubricated. By the way, the idea of making notches on skis goes back to the kamus.

When already in the first meters of the ski track it becomes clear that the skis are giving back, the first thing you can do is add a little grip ointment to the loading area. If this is not enough, slightly increase the area of application of the ointment towards the toe of the ski. If this does not completely eliminate recoil, add a little ointment to the cargo area, designed for warmer weather - 2-4 ° C higher than the main ointment (a prudent skier always has ointment with him). Even if the skis glide a little worse, there will be no recoil and the walk will not turn into flour.

Details for the curious

How to tar wooden skis

To prepare wooden skis for the winter season, they need to be tarred. In addition to the fact that resin protects wood from moisture, ointments and paraffins adhere better to a tarred surface.

First of all, we buy special ski resin at a sports store. One tube is enough for a pair of skis. We use two tin cans to make a water bath (see picture). Heat the ski resin in a water bath. Next, take a regular iron, carefully warm up the sliding surface of the ski and lubricate it with hot resin. To ensure the resin is better absorbed, iron the ski. When the first layer of resin dries, apply the second, and then the third. The tarred surface should have a thick dark brown color.

Sometimes, to tar the skis, they are heated over an open fire - over a gas stove or blowtorch. So, under no circumstances should you do this! Not only is it dangerous, but the resin also partially burns on fire and soot is formed, which significantly impairs gliding.

And skiers know that a necessary condition for the proper operation of sports equipment is its preparation before use. Regular lubrication of skis makes it easier to glide on the snow surface and protects them from rapid wear. Everyone needs lubrication, regardless of the material of manufacture: both plastic and wooden.

Types of lubricants

The most common ski lubricant is paraffin. They are available in standard size bars, but vary in price category. The assortment of foreign manufacturers includes liquid wax in tubes. It is worth considering that in the central zone and in the south of Russia in the winter season the air temperature can fluctuate significantly, and this is one of the factors affecting gliding. Therefore, it is advisable to have several types of paraffins in your arsenal, intended for use in different temperature ranges. Since paraffins are classified as gliding lubricants, they are used to treat the toe and heel parts of skis. Holding ointments are used for the block (central part).

Lubricating skis with paraffin is especially widely used in amateur sports for short training sessions and short trips up to 15 km. In a professional environment, the requirements are completely different. Here skiers use more expensive means (boosters). They can be presented in various variations, in the form of aerosols, powders, emulsions, etc.

Lubrication equipment and accessories

To properly treat yourself with paraffin, you need additional accompanying products:

A special iron for application and distribution, you can use a regular old iron, but with caution, and set the heating mode to a minimum.
Plastic scraper for removing the old layer of paraffin.
A brush with coarse bristles, mostly nylon. With its help, the sliding surface of the skis is cleaned more thoroughly.
Used to clean the pads
To lubricate the skis and ensure maximum gliding, their surface is polished using non-woven material. These can be old things made of nylon, wool or felt.

Ski preparation process

Lubrication of plastic skis is carried out according to the following scheme: first, the remnants of the old layer of lubricant are removed using a scraper. Then the entire surface in the toe and heel parts is thoroughly cleaned with a brush and in the last with sandpaper. Only after this the sliding surface of the skis is treated with paraffin, and the last is treated with holding ointment. For maximum results, paraffin can be applied in several layers. This method is used to prepare professional racing skis. In amateur sports, a sufficient condition is to lubricate the skis once with gliding ointments (paraffins). Finally, the sliding surface of the skis must be polished.

To cool and consolidate the lubricant, the skis are taken outside for about 30 minutes. After this time they will be ready for use.

Workshops (ski services) that provide the service of resining wooden skis are almost impossible to find today. After all, wooden touring skis are considered a dying format. Despite this, they have their fans and connoisseurs, and not only for the much lower recoil when climbing uphill (you can read about improvised methods of combating recoil). And they are simply a budget option for equipment for winter hiking.
So, to get your wooden equipment ready for combat, you'll have to roll up your sleeves and master tarring skis at home.

How and how to tar wooden skis

Tarring is necessary in order to protect skis from water, because wood absorbs it well from wet snow. After processing, it becomes denser and more resistant to wear.

This procedure also protects skis from drying out and cracking in the off-season - in the summer, when they are stored in a barn, on a balcony or mezzanine. In addition, tarring skis is the “basic” protection against sticking. Checked - skis that are tarred, but not lubricated with anything, nevertheless glide. Of course, not like running ones, but in a completely “working” mode.

The resin layer should be renewed before each season. True, hunters prefer to do this after winter, so that the specific smell disappears over the summer and does not scare away the animal.

You can purchase special resin for skis in stores for fishermen and hunters, as well as in equipment stores for tourists.

If, for some reason, you do not find resin, you can use birch tar, which is sold in pharmacies. In extreme cases, wood stain will do.

Below is a universal step-by-step instruction that is suitable for all types and models of wooden skis. We hope that after reading it you will not have any questions, including how to tar hunting skis.

Useful articles:

Step-by-step instructions for tarring skis

Step 1. Using turpentine and scrapers, remove the old ointment from the skis, sand the “sole” with sandpaper. If the skis are new, treat their sliding surface with fine sandpaper or a piece of window glass.

Step 2. Before tarring your skis, heat a bottle or tube of resin in a glass of hot water to make it more liquid. Place the ski tip and tail on two points, for example, on the backs of two chairs. Mentally divide it into about 3 parts, since it is better to resin the ski in sections.

Step 3. Heat one part of the ski with a torch, blowtorch or industrial hair dryer, but not to the point of scorching. Pour some resin onto the heated area of the ski and immediately spread it with a brush. Do not pour too much so as not to stain the floor and everything around. If resin gets on the sides of the ski, immediately wipe it off with a dry cloth.

Step 4. Heat the treated area of the ski again until bubbles form and rub the resin again. If the resin flares up, blow it out sharply and continue. Do the same with the entire ski. Let it rest and dry, then do the second one at this time.

To make your ski trip enjoyable, you need to carefully prepare your skis by applying the appropriate lubricant. How to lubricate skis at home- more on this later.

Why lubricate your skis?

If previously the range of skis was limited only to wooden models, today you can purchase plastic and combined ones. However, this does not detract from the advantages of wooden skis, and their use is still relevant.

The need to lubricate wooden skis is partly related to the characteristics of the material: the wood needs to be protected from moisture. Also, a lubricated surface glides better and reduces friction with snow.

Therefore, if you are wondering whether you need to lubricate your skis, we give you a clear answer: yes, this procedure is required. Moreover, it concerns not only wooden, but also plastic products.

What you need to lubricate your skis

"Wax the skis" - this is exactly the definition that skiers came up with for this procedure. Use of paraffin a is one of the most famous methods of lubricating skis in at home.

You will need:

Iron. Every ski professional has a special ski waxing iron that makes the procedure twice as fast. An economical option is a regular old household iron. Attention: we need an old iron that has not been used for ironing clothes for a long time. There is a high probability that after lubricating the skis, it will be impossible to iron clothes with them.

Working surface. You need a large table to put your skis on. Do not forget to cover unnecessary oilcloth or newspapers so as not to spoil the surface.

Paraffin ski lubricant. Contact a sports store - they will offer you several types of paraffin lubricant to choose from. The price range is very wide; for amateur skating, an inexpensive universal lubricant with a wide temperature range is suitable. An economical option is an ordinary paraffin candle, which you probably have at home.

Ski brushes. It is ideal if you buy a set of 3 brushes: thin metal, medium hard nylon and soft nylon. But you can get by with a medium-hard nylon brush. Warning: Regular household brushes can be too harsh and risk damaging the surface of your skis.

Scrapers. They are used to remove excess wax and clean the groove.

So, everything is ready. Skis, clean and dry, lie on the table, iron and lubricant are at the ready. Now let's move on to the process itself.

How to lubricate wooden skis yourself

The first thing you need to do is prepare your skis. Obviously they need to be clean and dry. Take a brush and lightly clean the surface of dirt.

Next, take the lubricant and rub it on the sliding surface of the skis. By the way, many people end there. However, keep in mind that without exposure to high temperatures, the lubricant will not be absorbed, and it will last for a maximum of 2-4 km.

Now turn on the iron to the lowest temperature and carefully iron the surface of the ski. The grease will melt and soak into the wood. If you don’t know how to properly lubricate skis, or are doing it yourself for the first time, then keep in mind: you shouldn’t hold the iron in one place for a long time, 2-3 seconds is enough.

After this, take a break. Let the skis cool to room temperature. Then pick up a scraper and remove excess from the surface and groove.

That's all. You know how to lubricate classic skis with paraffin. As you can see, the process is not the most difficult, but you will have to tinker.

How often should you lubricate your skis?

Don’t forget that you need to lubricate your skis regularly, at least 3 times a season. Thanks to this, you will be comfortable skiing on them, and the service life of your skis will increase several times.

How do you know when it's time to lubricate your skis? A sure indicator will be the appearance of a light gray coating on the surface of the skis.

If you do not want to devote too much time to this procedure, contact a specialized workshop in your city or a sports store. Nowadays various paste-like lubricants and lubricants in cans are sold, which can be used even outside the home while riding.

Tarring skis is an outdated term that is practically not used by modern ski athletes. This is because ski resin is used for wood products that are not used much by skiers. Due to the fact that ski shops do not apply resin, owners of wooden pairs need to know how to make and apply the lubricant. If you know yourself, you can extend the life of the product.

Resin is needed to protect a wooden product from the destructive effects of moisture. When properly impregnated, the density of the wood increases, which increases the durability of the product.

There are several types of lubricant:

For better glide. On different types of snow, wooden products glide differently. To improve this indicator, you can use special ointments.
To hold. These impregnations are most often used for plastic skis, but can also be used for wooden ones. They are needed in cases where the skis are slippery and this makes it difficult to push off to start moving. This makes it difficult to climb uphill.
For protection against moisture. These lubricants include resins and impregnations that protect wood from exposure to liquids. They must be applied before and after each season. They are used for touring and classic ski pairs.

Composition and manufacture of the product

You can make the impregnation composition at home or purchase a ready-made mixture in the store. The classic mixture consists of the following components:

pine resin;
turpentine;
Birch tar;
kerosene;

Simpler options are made only from pine resin or birch tar. If you can't find these two ingredients, you can use wood stain.

What products need to be resinized?

Only wooden skis can and should be oiled. The plastic itself is resistant to moisture. Wooden fibers gradually become soaked and begin to rot, crack, and delaminate. You need to soak your ski pair not only before the start of the season, but also after it ends. This is due to the fact that when storing skis on a balcony or in a storage room, they may become unusable due to changes in temperature and changes in air humidity.

Do not store wooden skis near heating elements, in direct sunlight or near sources of open flame.

Step-by-step instructions for tarring

To achieve maximum results from resining a pair of skis, the products must be processed:

Before applying homemade or purchased lubricant, it is necessary to prepare the working surface. To do this, using cycle and turpentine, remove the old layer of impregnation and degrease the surface. Then, use fine sandpaper to sand the surface of the product for better adhesion to the new impregnation.
The resin must first be heated to make it more liquid. Place the ski so that it is in a horizontal position on two points of support. You can use chairs for this.
Imagine that the surface is divided into three zones. Using a gas torch or industrial hair dryer, heat the first part. Pour a small amount of resin onto it and spread it evenly with a brush.
Heat the resin-coated surface again until bubbles appear. Go over it with the brush again. After this, wipe off the remaining resin from the edges of the ski and begin the second part. After treating the entire surface, allow the resin to dry completely and absorb. Leave